Visa Run from Panajachel to Tapachula 2021

Back at the end of January, I did my first visa run since the pandemic started.

ZERO OUT OF TEN. WOULD NOT RECOMMEND.

I have done these visa runs for almost six years now and you can look back in my blog to see previous entries. I'm pretty much an expert at going from Pana to Tapa, but that doesn't make it any more fun.

If you are thinking, "How do I do a visa run to Tapachula?", well, just stop thinking that and pick a different way to get your tourist stamp! It is an adventure not worth having. Walk into any travel agency in Pana and book a nice clean shared shuttle to San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico. More expensive and actually a longer trip, but a lot safer and easier.

However, if you are absolutely sure you want to waste two travel days in dirty, dangerous, overcrowded chicken buses just to get another stamp, I can tell you exactly how to get it done.

A chicken bus driver surrounded by plastic as COVID-19 protection. (Guatemala)

First of all... what is a visa run?

Guatemala only allows tourists to stay in the country for 90 days from entry. When you arrive in Guatemala, the border official will put an entry stamp in your passport with 90 written in a box. This is the same if you arrive by air or by land, and I suppose by boat too, if that's your thing. 

After 90 days, you have three options if you want to spend more time in Guatemala.

1. Go to the migration office in the city and get an extension. This can only be done once. I haven't done this but I am considering it for my next renewal, partially just to see how it's done in order to tell you guys about it, and partially because of the painful memory of this last visa run.

2. Go on a visa run, or border run, to another country, stay out of Guatemala for 72 hours, and get a new 90-day stamp upon re-entry. Note that the other CA-4 countries don't count for this -- El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua. You have to go to Mexico or Belize, or further away like Costa Rica or even back home to your own country. Also, the 72 hour thing is not found in any rule book. It's just what the border guards have been told. You can get away with 48 hours, if you're lucky, which I am not.

3. Send your passport for a new stamp with an agency. This is illegal, or at best unadvisable. Most travel agencies in Panajachel offer this service. It costs around Q500. The agency gives your passport to a driver who is going to Mexico, where they bribe the border official to get a new 90-day stamp. I'm sure you can see the problem here.

So how do I go from Panajachel to Tapachula by chicken bus?

Short and simple, here's the breakdown with my actual costs and times in January 2021.

PANAJACHEL TO TAPACHULA
Step	Route	Type	Time (min)	Cost
1	Pana to Xela	chicken bus	136	Q30
2	Xela to San Marcos	chicken bus	125	Q20
3	San Marcos to Malacatán	chicken bus	85	Q25
4	Malacatán to the border	colectivo	22	Q7
5	Talismán to Tapachula	colectivo	45	P23
			6 hrs 53 min	Q82+P23

Please note that my actual total travel time was longer than what it says in the table. I got on the first bus in Pana at 6:15 am and got off the last bus in Tapachula at 2:20 pm, so that is just over 8 hours.

Here is a more detailed description of how to travel from Panajachel to Tapachula, Mexico.

Step 1

In Panajachel, you can catch chicken buses near the the fire station on the main street. I happened to catch the direct bus to Xela (Quetzaltenango) across from La Palapa. It was idling there with a few passengers inside and I asked if it was the directo. The direct buses to Xela are all named Flor de Paisaje, Flower of the Countryside, but always ask just to be sure. The direct buses leave around 6:30, 7:30, and I think 10:30. You can ask in the Panajachel Community Group on Facebook for more current information. If there is not a direct bus, just take the regular chicken bus to Sololá (Q5), then to Los Encuentros (Q5), and from there to Xela (Q20?). 

Step 2

The bus terminal in Xela is just a big mess o' buses in front of the market. It's not a building or anything. It's crazy there, as you can see from this video that Bert took.

The ride to Xela is long, so you may need a bit of a break. Walk against "the flow" of buses (west) a couple blocks and you'll reach the Pradera Mall. They have a nice food court and clean bathrooms.

Your next bus is to San Marcos/San Pedro Sacatepéquez. As a tourist, the bus helpers might try to send you to San Marcos La Laguna, which is back at Lake Atitlan! Make sure you tell them either San Marcos in the department of San Marcos or San Pedro Sacatepéquez. The bus nameplate over top of the windshield will say San Marcos/San Pedro. (Curse the Guatemalans for naming all of their towns after the same damn saints.)

Step 3

San Marcos bus terminal is actual buildings with food vendors outside and clothing vendors inside. There are several bathrooms located here for Q3. This is where I often have to wait for my connection, but usually no more than 10 or 15 minutes. You want the bus for Malacatán, which is usually pretty empty so you can get a nice seat by yourself. (Funny sidenote: Guatemalans will crowd themselves three to a seat before they will sit beside a gringo!)

A chicken bus and two colectivos at San Marcos bus terminal,
Sacatepéquez, Guatemala

The ride from San Marcos to Malacatán is my favourite leg of this trip. You descend from the high pine-treed forests of the mountains down into the steamy tropical jungle, passing through a zone of coffee plantations. On the right-hand side, you get an amazing view of Tajumulco volcano, the highest peak in all of Central America.

Tajumulco Volcano peeking over the clouds on a sunny afternoon in Guatemala.

COVID-19 surprise -- the bus driver actually refused boarding to a guy not wearing a mask. Good for him!

Step 4

This is the most confusing connection of the trip. When you pay the ayudante (helper) on the bus to Malacatán, tell him you want to go to the border, la frontera. Because you are most likely the only non-Guatemalan on the bus, he will remember you and hopefully signal you when it is your turn to get off. He will drop you at a corner, nothing special, no landmarks, just a corner of two streets in Malacatán, and tell you to wait there. You are looking for colectivo, a mini-bus type vehicle. There will be a young man hanging out the sliding side door and calling out, "Tally-man, Tally-man." That's your ride. They come along every 5 or 10 minutes, so you won't have to wait long.

Step 5

The minivan will take you to the border town, which is quite small and easy to navigate. You will be besieged by guys trying to sell you pesos. The exchange rate is BAD but if you didn't get pesos in Pana before you left, you can buy some here. You can bargain with the guys, although they will grumble and complain as if you are the worst kind of thief. You will need 23 pesos for your trip into Tapachula, so get at least double that, just in case.

Here at the border, you have to stamp out of Guate, walk across the short bridge, and stamp into Mexico. 

From your bus, walk downhill past the official looking cement building with the big overhanging section. That's not for you. (I think it might be for claiming exports?) The Guatemalan migration building you want is further on, on the right-hand side, totally unassuming, easy to miss, almost all the way to the bridge. Look for white and blue paint, and a low metal barrier. There are two windows -- one for entry and one for exit -- but only one window is ever open. Present your passport and tell them you are going to Mexico. Usually, leaving Guatemala is not a problem. They don't care if you leave and don't ask questions or check your bags. On this trip, the agent did remind me that I would need a COVID-19 test to return.

The border of Guatemala and Mexico at Talisman.
I'm standing in Guate, the yellow building is in Mexico. Super short bridge!

After you get your exit stamp, you can just stroll across the bridge pictured above. If you peek over the left edge, you will see people wading across the river with their bags on their heads. Sometimes there are guys will big black innertubes floating bigger parcels across. This is all in plain view of both the Guatemalan and Mexican authorities.

To cross into Mexico, stay to the right and pass through a metal turnstile. You will immediately be in a more organized, clean, and professional area, totally unlike the dirty chaos of the Guate side. The fenced walkway will funnel you along to where you need to go. Show your passport to the guard and he will tell you to go inside. (The outside window is for Guatemalans and Mexicans only, I believe.)
Inside, approach a window and tell them you are entering Mexico. They will ask you for how many days; just say three days or for the weekend. They will give you a form to fill out. Fill out the top and bottom, sign and date. You will have to put in your hotel name in Tapachula. Take it back to the window and they will ask you a few more questions -- or not -- and stamp you into Mexico. They will give you a portion of the form to keep. Hang on to this! You will need it to exit Mexico. If you lose this paper, you will have to pay a fine.

COVID-19 note: I'd say mask-wearing at the border was only about 50%. I asked the Mexican border agent if masks were mandatory and she said yes. In Mexico, they call them cubre bocas, mouth coverings. In Guate, they call them mascarillas, little masks.

After you get your stamp, there will be guards outside who will check your bags. This trip, there were two separate stations and both checked my bags, one with a drug dog. The stations were only a few meters apart so I'm not sure what the point was. They're nice folks though, and sometimes like to practice their English with you.

Once you're through that, take an immediate sharp left and cut across the traffic that is crossing the bridge. Walk thru the small parking lot. You will see motorcycle taxis with red-and-white striped tops. You can take one, if you're tired or have a lot of bags, but it's just a few blocks to get to your next bus so you can stretch your legs.

Walk along the wide tree-lined street almost to the end. You will hear a guy calling out "Tapachula, Tapachula directo." Most likely he will notice you and usher you to the waiting minibus. (If you somehow get to the extremely gigantic tree on the left, you've gone too far.) 

Ride the mini-van all the way to the end, which is the Tapachula bus terminal. From there, exit and turn left, walk up a HUGE steep hill, and you will be at the central park. You made it!

The new Tapachula sign in Parque Central Miguel Hidalgo.

RETURNING

The return trip is kind of the same. You will get confused at Malacatán again. If you can speak to the helper on the mini-bus from the border, tell him you're trying to get to Xela. Hopefully, he will get the driver to drop you near the bus terminal and you won't end up at the market. I'd say this is a 50/50 chance. If you do end up at the market, take a tuc-tuc back to the terminal. It's way too far to walk. And when I say terminal, I mean a small gravel parking lot with bathrooms and one bus. 

Also, I never seem to find the direct bus from Xela to Pana. Instead, I take any bus going towards Los Encuentros and ask to get off at La Cuchilla (the knife). Then I just wait for the next chicken bus heading to Sololá, which costs Q5, I think, then from Sololá to Pana, another Q5. A bit of a hop-skip-jump but totally easy.

Where to stay in Tapachula?

I stayed at a different hotel than my usual one this trip, just out of boredom. You can see my review on Tripadvisor 👉 Hotel Cabildos. TLDR -- it was okay, but I won't return.

I normally stay at Hotel Cervantino, which is cheaper but also doesn't have hot water. You'd think that would be a problem but Tapachula's weather is scorching, so cool showers are a relief. (Trivia ... Tapachula roughly translates to "hot lid".)

What about getting a COVID-19 test in Mexico?

When I crossed from Guatemala into Mexico at the Talismán border, the Guatemalan border official reminded me that I would need a coronavirus test to return to Guatemala. I had prepared for this and researched where to get the antigen test in Tapachula. It was actually super easy.

I went to a place called MediLab. It is close to the central park, Parque Central Miguel Hidalgo. The address is 69A 6th Avenue North. Basically, go to the park, find the Scotiabank, and walk north from there. It's just a few blocks on the right-hand side. 

Check the current hours for MediLab on their Facebook page. They weren't open on Sunday, so I had to go Saturday to get my test done for my departure Monday. The test results are good for 48 hours, I believe. Prices can change too so just message them on FB if you need to.

The receptionist had no idea what I was talking about when I asked for a test to travel to Guatemala. She called in the doctor, who told me I needed a PCR test, which would cost MXN 2990. Um, nope! I told him I only needed the antigen test (nose swab), which costs MXN 1100. They asked me to pay upfront and gave me a receipt. I waited less than 10 minutes before the doctor called me, swabbed both my nostrils -- not painful, just made my eyes water -- and then they told me to come back in two hours for my results. When I came back, the receptionist gave me an envelope with a single paper inside saying my result was negative. Yay! 

TIP: Get a photocopy of your test results. The Guatemalan border official asked me for that, which I didn't have. There are photocopy places at the border but might be easier to just have it done before you arrive there. 

WHY THIS PARTICULAR VISA RUN WAS SO VERY AWFUL 😭

At the start of this post, I mentioned that this trip is zero out of 10 stars. I was literally in tears at several points on the way home to Pana. 

First of all, and worst of all, the Guatemalan border official didn't want to let me back into Guatemala. It was horrible! I was standing at the stupid plexiglass window trying to talk to him through a hole that was covered with more plastic. I could barely hear a thing he was shouting at me, but I could tell he was super upset. He looked at all my stamps and said what I was doing was illegal. He asked about my job and where my money came from and where it went. I tried to answer him honestly but he just kept getting madder and madder. He yelled at me for probably 10 minutes. I was struggling to hold back my tears and frantically thinking to myself, "What do I do?"

I finally asked to be let inside to talk. He opened the side door and asked again about my work and was just overall angry about something. He finally threw up his hands and told me to go back to the window. He stamped my passport and waved me away. I think he only let me go because he could see the lineup of 10 people behind me, all staring, and he was tired of me saying, "No entiendo. Por favor, puede usted hablar mas despacio?" ("I don't understand. Please can you speak more slowly?") I triple-checked the stamp to be sure he gave me 90 days. I had heard from other people on the Facebook groups that sometimes the guards get upset and only give 3 days and tell you that you have to start your residency process within those three days. I don't qualify for residency, so this would be impossible for me. 

After that disaster, I stumbled up the road to get in the mini-bus to take me to Malacatán. I was grateful for my mask which hid my face. I was trying so hard not to cry! I have never had a customs official get so upset with me, and I have never come so close to being refused entry. 

What would I have done if he told me I couldn't enter? I guess... walk back to the Mexico office and tell them. Probably get stamped back INTO Mexico, then take a bus over to the other border crossing at Tecún Umán and try again there.

When I posted this story on the Panajachel Facebook group, a few others said that they had had troubles but not a single person had ever said they'd be flat out refused entry. Many commented that the guy was probably looking for a bribe, a multa, but I don't think that was the case. Bert said that probably the guy had relatives who had been deported from the States and he was just mad at foreigners. Another person said that he had spoken with migration officials in the city and was told that border guards were being advised to "watch out" for people like me, people with multiple entry stamps over many years. So perhaps the time of visa runs is coming to an end. I'm honestly not sure what I'm going to do for my next visa run in April. Maybe take my own advice and go with a group to San Cristóbal.

Another awful thing that happened on this trip is that the bus from Xela overcharged me BIG TIME. The trip from Xela to La Cuchilla should only cost Q20 or maybe Q25 since the prices have gone up. I gave the helper Q50 and then he tried to ignore me. I said I wanted my change and he waved me away. I insisted on change and he gave me Q10 back. I was furious! I said that it doesn't cost Q40 and he told me the prices went up. I told him I just did this trip on Friday and the direct from Pana to Xela cost only Q30 so why would this bus cost Q40? He told me that the bus was empty so he had to charge me double. A nice Guatemalan lady tried to help me and backed up my complaint by saying that the bus should only be Q20. But the guy wouldn't budge. He just laughed and turned away. 

So what did I do? (Besides FUME 😡?) When I got off the bus, I took down the license plate number and reported the bus to the authorities. I had seen a sign on another chicken bus that said you can report COVID-19 protocol violations by calling 1532. (The shortened number is like a 1-800 number.) I was worried I would have to speak in Spanish on the phone, so instead I went to the DGT website and sent them a message through the contact form. I entered the bus license plate number and reported that not only had they overcharged me but also neither the bus driver nor ayudante were wearing masks. I'm fairly certain nothing will come of it, but it helped me to think I did something to fight back.

Here is an article about reporting chicken buses (autobuses extraurbanos) to the transportation ministry, DGT.

So, yeah, this trip was a disaster and when I finally got home to my weird little pink house in Panajachel, I burst into tears! Bert was totally shocked and listened sympathetically to my story. On top of the problems I had, I am always super sore after riding chicken buses. The seats are not big enough for an adult person, or at least not anyone taller than 5'5". My knees are always bruised from bashing against the seat in front of me, my butt sore from hitting speed bumps, my arms tired from clenching the rail to prevent myself from sliding off my seat on sharp corners, and overall muscle aches from the terrifying speed that chicken buses go, regardless of rain, fog, darkness, traffic, safety, whatever. 

Final Thoughts

Don't take chicken buses for a visa run. It's not worth the pain.

Book a nice shared shuttle to San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico, through Magic Travel at the top of Santander. I've blogged about this trip before (click here) although it has been years. The journey takes about 12 hours, which is loooooong, but the drivers are generally safer, the border guards don't harass you because you're in a nice group of gringos and have a guide, and you might even be able to wear a seat belt. It is worth the extra cost.

On top of that, San Cris is a nice city with lots of things to see and do, while Tapa is a dirty, boring city that is stifling hot.

Until next time. 👋

Five Years in Guatemala!

Yes, today is our 5th Guateversary! On April 1st, 2015, Bert and I packed up our lives and got on a plane from Toronto to Guatemala. How crazy is that? 😊

I think this is the most interesting, adventurous, life-changing thing I have ever done. Not saying I won't do something MORE life-changing in the future, but so far, this tops the list.

The beautiful Lake Atitlan

I'm struggling to figure out what to say about living for five years in Guatemala as an expatriate, expat, foreigner, immigrant, or extranjera. It's hard because everything right now is about COVID-19, the coronavirus pandemic. Guatemala has taken drastic measures to flatten the curve, which is awesome. So far, there have been only 38 cases in the whole country, I believe. There are zero cases in Panajachel, the town where I live. I am grateful for that, although I worry that if I do get sick, the healthcare system here is not nearly as good as in Canada. But no sense fretting over something I can't control.

So back to the topic of five years as a Canadian expat in Guatemala....it's great! I've written about the pros and cons before but I will sum up.
Biggest downsides -- culture differences, which includes language problems, morality, safety, and racism.
Biggest bright sides -- lovely climate and low cost of living, plus I'm meeting a wide array of fascinating people from all over the world.

What I would say to anyone thinking about leaving Canada to move to Guatemala? Go for it! Honestly, the scariest part was leaving. Now that I'm out of my home country, I feel so free. Like I can go anywhere and do anything. It's not as hard as I thought it would be to live in a foreign country. Daily life becomes fairly routine after a while, even though I still stop and stare at Guatemalan things that would never happen at home. For instance, a family of five riding on one motorcycle, people banging pots in the middle of the night to wake up the moon, a barefoot five-year-old running to the store to buy eggs, and soooooooo many stray dogs everywhere. Life is certainly different here but it is also most definitely GOOD.

Take care of yourselves, dear readers, and keep your eyes looking forward to a better time when you can follow those dreams you've been putting on the back burner. 😀

High Praise for Lake Atitlan from Fodor's Travel

I just read this great article about how you can vacation at Lake Atitlan for far less than a trip to Italy and still experience all the joys and beauty you would expect from a European destination.

👉🏼 An Affordable Alternative to Italy 👈🏼

Casa Palopó, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

The article from Fodor's features several rather ritzy places and activities, but I can tell you that you can get a lovely hotel for far cheaper than you might think. Plus eating at the restaurants here is very inexpensive, especially for traditional barbecue (churrasco).  That means you'll have more money to splurge on traditional hand-woven fabrics, real jade, beaded animals, wooden masks, amazing paintings of the lake, and buying knick-knacks from the cute child vendors. 

Bert and my sister in the jacuzzi and Hotel Atitlan.
This is not some fancy photo from a hotel website. This is a real pic that I took!

When my sisters visited for the first time, they stayed at the beautiful Hotel Lake Atitlan. It is located just outside of Pana so it is very quiet. They have gorgeous gardens to wander through, a pool with a view of the lake and volcanoes, and extravagant rooms decorated with local art and textiles. My sisters loved it because you could flush your toilet paper. 😄 (Read my article about bathrooms here.)

Lakeview room in Porta Hotel Del Lago

For a more first-world style hotel -- complete with elevator! -- The Porta Hotel Del Lago is a popular choice. It is located right in the middle of Panajachel, only steps from the waterfront. They recently installed a "living wall" of plants that goes all the way up the side of the building. They have a pool, lakeview rooms, conference facilities, and gardens.

Gardens at Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo, Panajachel

Another popular waterfront hotel is Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo. They are proud to feature Guatemalan traditions, food, dance, clothing, and decor, yet they still offer first-world amenities to refresh and relax you. Wouldn't you love to be in one of those hammocks right now?

"But I'm a poor traveler. I can't afford those hotels!"
No worries, my friend! Head over to TripAdvisor and sort by price low to high. You will find rooms for as little as $25 Canadian ($20 American) per night! Hmm, at those prices, I might spend a night in a hotel myself!

TIP: Many folks are scared off of Guatemala due to over-exaggerated news reports about violence and crime. While the city and border towns can be a bit scary, Lake Atitlan is pretty peaceful and safe. The locals know that tourism is their bread and butter -- or should I say tortillas and beans -- and they want visitors to enjoy their time. (And spend lots of money too, of course!) Use your common sense, as you would in any city, and you'll be just fine.

I hope to see more of you strolling around Panajachel in the near future. And in case you need more incentive, today it's 23°C (73°F), sunny and breezy and beautiful! 😎

La Aurora Airport in Guatemala City

Whenever I travel, I'm too self-conscious to film it but this guy had no problem! Sorry, this is Spanish only right now. Hopefully, someone will submit English subtitles soon. It's a good video showing some recent upgrades to the airport, including a small upper level food court right at the entrance (before going thru security) as well as a short portion at the very end about what the arrivals area looks like so you know what to expect if you're getting OFF a plane here in Guate for the first time. Enjoy!

Guatemala -- Also A Place

A friend shared this on Facebook and it is hilarious! It is by comedian Arturo Castro of Comedy Central. I couldn't find the complete original to share so this one is a bit cut off. It should start with the words, "Imagine a place..."

I would like to also add that Guatemala is waaaaaaaay cheaper than Costa Rica. So plan your trip today! And say HI to me if you see me in Panajachel. 😄

A Day Trip to Tecpán and the Iximché Ruins

My sister is visiting from Canada and we thought we'd take a trip to see the nearest Mayan ruins, which are just outside Tecpán. I've blogged about them before but this trip was a bit different. We didn't rent a fancy private shuttle. We took chicken buses!

For those travelers wanting just the details on how to get from Panajachel to Iximché ruins in Tecpán, here they are! (Prices are per person)
1. Chicken bus from Pana to Sololá Q3
2. Chicken bus from Sololá to Los Encuentros Q2.50
3. Chicken bus from Los Encuentros to Tecpán Q7.50 to Q10. (We were charged one price on the way there and a different price on the way back.)
4. Tuc-tuc from the highway into the Tecpán Plaza Central Q3
5. Tuc-tuc from Plaza Central out to ruins -- this was when it helped that I was prepared. The tuc-tuc driver asked for Q25 a person. NO WAY! I had read in another blog that it should be Q10 per person, so I paid them Q20 for both of us. On the way back from the ruins to Tecpán central square, we took a collectivo (shared minibus) for only Q3 a person. Much better deal!

Getting from Pana to Iximché should have only taken about 2 hours. It took us 4 hours! See pictures below for the reason. 😁

The ruins cost Q50 for foreigners to enter. There is no extra cost for the museum. They are open 9am to 4pm, I believe.
The ruins are not very big and can be seen in an hour. If you hire a guide, the tour is about 45 minutes.

All good days start with a good breakfast!

Can't forget the coffee! Cafe Loco, Panajachel, Guatemala

Just when we were getting on our way -- PARADE! We were stuck in Sololá for about an hour.

For some silly reason, the people of Sololá decided it would be fun to have a costume parade in the middle of the main street for an hour. Not sure why. It was kinda weird. We watched a bit of kooky dancing people, ate some yummy coconut with lime and pepitas, and my sister read her book.

A few chicken buses and tuc-tucs later, we were in downtown Tecpán. A bustling city! We snapped a few pics of the church (we went inside later that day), and then found a cute little restaurant to have some BBQ lunch.

The beautiful church in Tecpán. So amazing inside! High carved wood ceilings and intricate wooden altar thingies with paintings. No pictures cuz it felt disrespectful. Well worth a visit if you're ever in Tecpán.

Huge coniferous tree outside the church. Any ideas what it is?

Veggie Spaghetti Soup!

 Our lunch was only Q35, or about $6 Canadian or $4.50 American. It was super yummy.

Super delish and colourful churrasco (BBQ) lunch.

The ruins are quite a ways out of town. As mentioned above, the tuc-tuc tried to charge us a LOT more than they should have. I'm not sure how you would find the collectivo (shared minibus) from the city to the ruins, but on the way back, it let us off near the central park by a bakery. It had "ruinas" written on the window. I think if you asked anyone in the square, or perhaps the policia, they would point you in the right direction.

Iximché ruins are quite spacious.

My sister contemplating some ruins.

We didn't hire a guide this time, although English-speaking guides are available for an extra cost.
I tried to recite all the info that they told us last time!

A beautiful place. Simple ruins, nothing too fancy.

That tall tree was FULL of indentations, and almost every one had an acorn stored in it! We saw three woodpeckers making the holes, but we didn't see who was filling them with nuts!

Way at the back of the ruins is the working Mayan altar. It is very mystical.

Offerings to the gods, both Catholic and Mayan.

My sister playing tourist. 😄

Smoke thru the trees at the altar.

Last time I was here, we didn't go in the museum. We went in this time and I have to say it was quite informative and fascinating!

A diarama of how the ruins looked before they were ruins!

Some of the museum displays.

DUDE! There were some fascinating items found at the ruins when they were excavated.
I didn't take pictures of them all cuz I don't want to spoil the fun for anyone!

This is as we were waiting for our chicken bus from the highway near Tecpán, heading towards Los Encuentros.
I took this so that anyone planning a trip can recognize the turnoff to Tecpán. The driver called it super-something. Maybe super-salas? Not sure.

The sun was heading down fast as we got our series of wild chicken bus rides to get back home to Pana. We had to make one last fun stop though. The Xmas tree in the central square of Sololá was too awesome to pass up!

Our last chicken bus from Sololá down home was packed. My sister surfed in the aisle like a pro!

It was a long and fun-filled day. I must remind everyone that is traveling in Guatemala and really anywhere -- it's great to plan; it's even better to be flexible. Life can sometime throw parades in your way. Enjoy! 😊

Surviving High Season in San Marcos La Laguna -- A Guest Post

K.N. from San Marcos Holistic Cottage wrote this hilarious and accurate post on Facebook to the people of the San Marcos community. She included an episode of the super-funny and super-spiritual J.P. Sears as well. Enjoy!

The onset of high season is upon us. Yup, whether you like it or not the population in town is about to triple. From December to around the end of March the town seems to be flooded with tourists and people escaping cooler climates to spend some time in the land of eternal spring. While the season generally brings a lot of tourist money to the town, here are some tips to make your experience and the towns experience a little more pleasurable for everyone.
1) If you want a place to stay it is best to make reservations. Hotels and AirBnBs fill up fast, especially over the Christmas season. While some places do take walk-ins, many people end up staying in San Marcos a lot longer than expected so, plan ahead.
2) Your money has power. Support established businesses and people who are here year-round that give back to the community.
3) San Marcos is termed the “spiritual community” around the lake. However, I can assure you those running around telling you how “spiritual” they are, are the least conscious people here. Most show up for a few months, set up their “business,” earn some cash and then move on to their next destination. Most copycat anything and everything that exists here year round. This would not even be possible in most first world countries as the paperwork alone would take months to organize and be approved. There are many opportunities to learn here, to participate in activities, training and events. Use your judgement and intuition to find the right people for you. When in doubt, ask around for recommendations.
4) There are generally three price tears in these parts, tourists, residents, and locals. Tuk-tuks and boat prices are regulated and posted at some of the docks. If you can’t afford the extra Q5 to get to San Pedro, DON’T GO. Just because you have been here before or for a week does not make you a resident. If you can get away with paying less, fabulous, be grateful, but quite frankly it is embarrassing to hear and see people arguing over 80 cents. Some places, like Pana, treat everyone much more equally when it comes to pricing. Here it is not always the case. Try to get informed of how much tuk-tuks and transport costs are so at least you can find another driver if someone is totally trying to rip you off.
5) Same goes for produce, if you are being charged unfairly, don’t buy with those vendors. They have to make trips to surrounding markets themselves to bring goods here. The extra few q that you may save will be spent on your transportation costs. Again you have free will, so feel free to use it.
6) The Quetzal is the currency in Guatemala. Dollars are becoming harder and harder to change. Banrural only accept pristine $50 and $100 notes. Any rips, marks or stains will not be accepted. Dollars are almost impossible to change in the city so if you need to change them, Pana and San Pedro are your best options.
There is an ATM in town. At times people have reported issues with it so if you are going to use it make sure you can see your account online to double check security. If there is a problem call the bank immediately and report it to the tourist police.
Xoom is getting to be more popular for money transfers but only works with USA accounts.
7) Most crime that happens here is avoidable. You do not need your ATM card, passport or hundreds of Q with you while you are swimming, hiking or at any big event. Leave your valuables at home, locked safely away if possible. You are in a third world country and have a lot more than most that live here. So if you want to leave your phone or computer on your bed with your door unlocked while you leave the room, go ahead, but, do not be surprised when it is gone by the time you get back.
8) If a crime happens please report it to the DISETEUR, tourist police (dressed in Navy blue shirts.) They are much more helpful in taking reports. They are located upstairs to the left of the stage in Central Park above the Renap office. In one of the “files” on the community page there is a list of emergency numbers if you are in need of assistance.
9) Follow your intuition. If a situation feels wrong or uncomfortable you do not have to be polite, get out of it. Your boundaries are yours, no explanation needed. Ask for help and watch out for each other. safespacesanmarcos@gmail.com is a confidential email for more sensitive issues.
10) Get dressed in the morning and stay dressed while in public places. You are a visitor in an Indigenous community where girls were not even allowed to wear shorts to play sports 10 years ago. When you see the majority of Indigenous women walking around in booty shorts and in their bras and the majority of men walking around shirtless or in Speedos, by all means, feel free to do the same.
We are not on an island, this is not a beach town so unless you are physically at the lake just please put some clothes on. You would not sit on a train in India wearing hardly anything so please, as “world travelers” have the respect to dress while here.
11) Bathe – a no-brainer for most… No shower? Well, you are at the lake so no excuses. While you may not be repelled by your own body odour others may be. It is actually one of the biggest and most stated complaints of the local community. There is no need to smell and patchouli oil can only do so much.
12) “High” Season refers to the amount of people here, not your state of consciousness or lack thereof. If you are choosing to engage in recreational, hardcore or medicinal drug use, please be advised that it is not legal here. Police say they have a right to search anyone, at any time, just because you are in an area where marijuana use is prevalent. There is absolutely no judgement here, just giving you a heads up that you want to keep it out of public places to minimize your chances of having a run-in with police. You may be here short term but long term businesses will be held accountable for your choices if you get caught in their premises.
13) A smile goes a long way in these parts. Especially if you do not speak Spanish (which by the way is also the second language for the Indigenous people who live here.) Communicate by smiling and at least make an attempt to learn a few words. An effort is always appreciated.
If you choose not to speak Spanish, just so you know, talking louder and yelling at people in another language does not help them to understand. I am willing to bet that you have had more opportunities to learn a second language than the people here. For most, English is their third.
14) Be Kind, Be Respectful, Be Aware and please don’t be an asshole. San Marcos has so much to offer. So explore, get involved, have conversations, ask questions and most of all be the change you want to see in the world. Your experience is up to you, so open your heart, expand your mind and connect. Wishing everyone a safe, fun-filled, inspirational journey.

Guatemala Is Not All Dirt Roads and Tin-Roofed Shacks

Before I came to Guatemala, I was only slightly less naive about the country than most people. I had done my research and focused my attention on the town of Panajachel on Lake Atitlan, population 17,000. I wanted a rural setting and wasn't bothered by stories of power outages and muddy roads and electric showers. I've never been a city girl. I'm a country mouse! 🐭

Recently, a friend posted a picture of the movie theater in Xela (Quetzaltenango) and a friend of hers commented, "That can't be Guatemala." But it is! I think a lot of people believe Guatemala is all dirt roads and tin-roofed shacks. And while that is actually true for the most part, I can tell you that Guatemala also has fancy malls and wide paved highways and 5-star hotels and even TGI Friday's.

The population of the capital, Guatemala City, is 2.9 million. The second-largest city is Xela with 225,000 people. A big drop! Doing some quick math, that means 17% of Guatemala's population lives in the city. Yikes.

Aerial view of Guatemala City. Sooooo big!

Guatemala City is quite sprawling, actually. I think that's probably due to a combination of earthquakes and poverty. There are not many multi-story buildings, and the city keeps growing outward as more people move closer to the opportunities that a big city provides. Seen from the air as you arrive on a plane to Aurora Airport, the city looks pretty dirty and grey. That's because almost all buildings here are built from concrete block. The owners will paint the front of their house or store, but not the sides or back. They save money by only painting the part of their house that facing the street. Very frugal.

I haven't spent any significant time in Guate City. I get in and get out. I'm usually only there to go to the airport. I have friends, however, who do regular shopping trips to the city and really enjoy it. Guatemala City is as modern as any large city can be! There are malls, museums, modern art, ballet, movie theatres, and music concerts. There is even La Aurora Zoo, which I've heard is actually quite nice.

For me, if I really need to do a shopping trip to buy something that isn't readily available in Panajachel, I'll go to Xela (Quetzaltenango is its official name but everyone calls it "shay-lah"). It's about 2.5 hours by chicken bus and the trip only costs between Q25 and Q30. The mall in Xela that I go to is called Pradera and it is located two blocks from the main bus terminal. I've written about it several times before. I go there a lot when I'm on my visa runs to have lunch, use a clean bathroom, and stretch my legs.

Centros Comerciales Pradera Xela. Look how shiny!

Pradera Mall's website is here and you can check out the list of stores. There is a Walmart, Ashley Homestore, Benetton, Levi's, GNC, and more shoe stores than you can count. They even have a Sears and a RadioShack, strangely enough. And, yes, there is a movie theatre here with real theatre popcorn! There is also a food court just like any mall "back home" with Taco Bell, Burger King, McDonald's, Pollo Campero, and more.

(EDIT: I just found out there's another modern mall in Xela called Utz Ulew. I'm gonna check it out next time I go there!)

Whenever I go to the mall in Xela, I always feel like a country bumpkin! Yes, there are still people wearing traditional clothing, but there are a lot more people wearing "regular" clothes...and they all seem to be wearing much nicer clothes than I have, and sporting new shoes and glasses and jewelry and iPhones.

Another weird thing that I've noticed when visiting Xela is women with short hair. I'm so used to the long, straight, pulled back hair of the women in Pana that it was actually a shock to me to see a girl with a stylish short 'do. 😄

Beautiful, iconic La Antigua, Guatemala

Another upscale, modern city in Guatemala is Antigua, population 46,000. It is a totally different city than Xela. It is known for its gorgeous Spanish Colonial architecture, historic ruined churches, and jaw-dropping Easter celebrations. There are no malls here, but there is no shortage of fancy restaurants and stores to visit. The town caters more to the tourist crowd rather than those looking for first-world delights, so you'll find lots of stores selling jade, silver, chocolate, and traditional textiles.

And the restaurants! Oh my! There are so many tempting places to eat. You will never run out of options for food, from traditional Guatemalan dishes (done right) to sushi, Indian, Korean, tapas -- you name it! And of course the beloved Londoner Pub! Just go to TripAdvisor and see for yourself. It lists 330 restaurants in Antigua. Buen provecho!

If you absolutely must have a taste of home when in Guatemala, I have to recommend the world's prettiest McDonald's in Antigua on 4th Street W., not far from the central park. An unassuming sign marks the entrance. Inside you can sit in the lovely garden next to the fountain and admire the volcano while you chow down on your McNífica. 😄 I take all my friends there just so they can be amazed!

I hope you've enjoyed this blog post about the modern side of Guatemala. Personally, I prefer the rustic side: the cobbled streets, jungle-clad hills, and beautiful indigenous people. But it's good to have options to soothe my first-world soul every now and then. 

Why don't you come to Guatemala? Book a flight now with Cheapflights.com.

A Sense of Community

Maybe it's the small town -- Panajachel has only 17,000 people.
Maybe it's the shared experience of being a stranger in a strange land.
Maybe it's just that only the most accepting and adventurous folks become expats.

All I know is that I actually feel a sense of community in Panajachel that I haven't felt in any town I've lived in for years.

I have friends here both close and casual. I say "hola" to people on the street. Some people say "hi" to me and I have no clue who they are, (sorry!) but I always say "hi" back.

People in Pana hug when meeting and leaving. I am REALLY BAD at it.
I'm sorry. I'd really prefer not to hug.

I think if I had chosen to live in a larger city in Guatemala, like Antigua or Xela, it wouldn't have been so easy to meet people. There may, in fact, be more expats in those cities, but I don't think there would be as many opportunities to interact. And you wouldn't get that feeling like, "Oh, I should say something because I keep crossing patha with this same person because there's only one main street." 😊 Then again, in a larger city with a larger pool of expats to meet, I could find myself with more friends and a larger social circle.

There is definitely a feeling of camaraderie when you see another foreigner in Guatemala. I have literally stopped what I was doing to ask wide-eyed white folks if they were lost and needed help. In addition, people have walked up to me and said, "Hey, I hear you're speaking English. Can you help us?" For the most part, expats and travelers alike are open and helpful. We all share that feeling of being a bit lost sometimes, even if we've been here for years.

One of the phrases you'll probably hear about Guatemala is "the wanted and unwanted". I'm not a fan of that expression. I am neither wanted by the law back home nor unwanted back home. I'm here because I desired a different lifestyle. I wanted to live cheaply so I had more time to travel. I wanted to experience new things. I'm easily bored. 😁

But you know, it's taken me three years to actually recognize this feeling of community. Not the town's fault nor the people's. Pretty much everyone I have met here has been friendly, knowledgeable, and welcoming. But those of you who know me will undoubtedly recognize that I am socially awkward! I don't get out much...anymore.

When I first arrived in Panajachel in 2015, I used drinking as a way to meet new people. Have a few frozen margaritas at La Palapa or some Stoopid Juice at Gringos Locos and you're making friends in no time! I had a blast and met so many fun, exciting, and interesting characters, some of whom are still good friends three years later.

But that sort of lifestyle isn't REALLY me. Plus, one thing about travelers is that they...wait for it...travel. Ha ha! People come and go. Even expats who have been here for a decade sometimes get itchy feet and head off for new adventures. So your social circle changes. Good friends leave, new friends come along. There is drama and broken hearts and alcoholism and arrests. The bar scene can get old. Nowadays, I go out maybe once a month, plus maybe another once or twice a month to a house party or casual dinner.

But that's fine with me. I like to sit at home on my computer, chillin' with my cats, learning new stuff, writing blog posts and all that jazz. When I venture out into town to shop, it always takes longer than I expect because of all the time I spend stopping and chatting with folks. (Bert gets so frustrated with me!) There are plenty of events and nights out on the town that I can participate in if I choose to. And if I organize a BBQ at my house or a party at the bar, lots of people show up to have fun! It's a good feeling.

As my regular readers are aware, a big part of my life in Panajachel is being a foster parent for AYUDA Para la Salud de Perros y Gatos. My involvement with this big-hearted charity is what inspired my blog post today. I met a lovely woman who came all the way across the Lake from San Pedro just to pick up a foster kitten I had so she could bring it to a Guatemalan family. For some weird reason, I just felt so connected to this person and I had a warm feeling that we shared something. We shared many things actually. We were both foreigners, both animal lovers, both willing to go the extra mile for a cute critter, both still struggling a bit with Spanish. And we both have found a way to give back to our community.

The adorable foster kitten that I had to say goodbye to today. 😭

In doing research for this blog, I came across this lengthy but fascinating article about a guy coming to Pana to study the expats. Does anyone remember him?
http://www.realestateatitlan.com/retirement-in-guatemala/the-expats-of-lake-atitlan-guatemala

To kinda sum up, the author describes "high impact" and "low impact" expats. High impacters are those who run business, operate charities, employ locals, and are involved directly with the Guatemalan culture through their friends and work. Low impacters are those who "live in a bubble", whose friends are all the same as them, who learn only the most basic Spanish to get by, who give back very little to Guatemala.

I think I'm low impact, which kinda makes me sad, but is also pretty understandable. I would love to have more Guatemalan friends, but my Spanish is not good enough yet. I don't have enough money to operate a business or employ anyone, not even a gardener for my backyard jungle. I live in a bubble, but I was like that back in Canada as well, so that's nothing new.

I think the longer I am in Guatemala, however, the more I am heading towards high impact. I'm fascinated by Guatemalan culture and do my best to learn about it and respect it. I am working to improve my Spanish and can have a decent conversation with the guy that runs my local tienda. Sometimes I can even make a joke! 😁 My volunteer work with AYUDA gives back to the community. They are very proudly a Guatemalan registered NGO, not an American one. Even though AYUDA is run by expats, they employ a Guatemalan veterinarian, accept interns from the Guatemalan veterinary school, and focus on education and creating positive change in the Guatemalan culture.

So how to close out this post...hmmm. I guess my message is that even if you are the most introverted of introverts, a sense of community is important and should be cultivated and cherished. No matter where you live, don't lock yourself up inside too much. Get out and meet people who love the same things you love, whether that's animals, yoga, mountain biking, art, coffee, or underwater basket weaving. Get on Facebook and connect with folks, then go outside and actually meet them in person. And if you are in Pana and say "hi" to me and I can't remember your name or where we met, forgive me! 😊 I'm a bit of a dork that way.

I really need this button. It'd be like my Medic Alert bracelet.
Or maybe I should get it tattooed somewhere...like my forehead? 😆 

Alyssa of Hiptipico Talks the Realities of Disaster Relief

I just watched a video from Alyssa at Hiptipico and it's brilliant. She talks about the realities of disaster relief efforts in Guatemala after the deadly eruption of Volcán de Fuego (Volcano of Fire) near Escuintla on June 3, 2018.

I wanted to share this video with you guys because what she says can apply to any situation where people are soliciting donations for a cause, and not just for emergencies. (It's about 11 minutes long.)

Alyssa is graceful and eloquent, as always, but I'll paraphrase in a more blunt manner.

Guatemala doesn't need your thoughts and prayers. It needs your money.

Harsh, right? But so true. Don't try to ship items from your country to Guatemala. We have bottled water. We have clothes. We have baby formula and gas masks and antiseptic and toothbrushes and all those things. The charities here in Guatemala need MONEY to buy those things from their local stores and get those things into the hands of the people who need them. They need to buy things that can't be shipped, like shovels, corrugated metal, and concrete. They need medicines that can't be imported. They need plain old cash to give to people to start new lives.

Aerial view of San Miguel Los Lotes, a small town on Highway 14. 

And that need is going to continue for many months beyond when this news story fades from the headlines. So many people lost their homes, their crops, their belongings. They have nothing. They're crammed into gymnasiums and classrooms, sleeping on blankets on the floor, lining up for food. They're sad and stressed and looking for hope.

Hope comes in the form of the volunteers who are there at those makeshift shelters dispensing donations, making soup, passing out toys to the kids to brighten their day, comforting the sick, mourning alongside the survivors.

Crying woman is comforted by firefighter captain. 

Please donate what you can. No amount is too small. Hiptipico is a great organization that will responsibly distribute donations to where it is needed most. I have the utmost trust in Alyssa and her team.

DONATE
Venmo: @hiptipico
PayPal: payment@hiptipico.com

"We call Guatemala home and are committed to doing all we can to aid in the recovery of the affected communities. We are humbled by the kindness and generosity of local Guatemalans and friends of Hiptipico worldwide. Thank you." ~~Alyssa of Hiptipico

Thank you, dear readers, for taking a few minutes to read my blog. I know my recent posts have been full of heartbreak and sadness and horrible situations. Guatemala is a strong country, full of people who are proud, hardworking, compassionate, and kind. Everyone here is coming together as never before to support the survivors of the Fuego disaster.
Click here to see a great 90-second video showing volunteers working so selflessly! 
Thank you a million times over for your support. 💜

The Price of Happiness

You don't believe money can buy happiness? You're wrong! So wrong!
Here is how much it costs to buy several days of happiness in Panajachel, Guatemala.
Q40.25. 
What? So cheap??
Yeah, it's the price of a 1-pound jar of peanut butter!  😁

But not so cheap compared to back home. Here's the price comparison:
1 lb Jif peanut butter in Panajachel = Q40.25 = US$5.49 = CAN$6.84
1 lb Jif peanut butter from Walmart.com = US$3.88
500g Kraft peanut butter from Walmart.ca = CAN$3.47

Mmmmmmm, Butter of the Peanuts!

I've blogged about this before. Yes, you can buy pretty much any "gringo" or "first-world" or "American" thing here in Pana, but you're gonna pay for it. Chalo's has some imported foods, and Sandra's has even more. If you go to the nearest cities -- Xela or Antigua -- you can go to Walmart and other branded stores and find even more stuff at a little bit better prices.

But what do you do when you're stuck in Pana and you're craving PB? You either buy the local stuff that's not so great, or you fork out your Q for the real stuff. (But it comes with a volcano view!)

Luckily for me, NJP's tenants left some peanut butter behind when they moved out, so now I've got a bit of a treat for the next few days for free! I'm a happy camper. 😋

LATE ADDITION:
I snapped a picture of the peanut butter in Chalo's. There a few American brands, the B&B local brand up top, plus homemade natural peanut butter from enterprising folks around the Lake.

Peanut butter at Chalo's, in Spanish -- mantequilla de maní.